(NATIONAL) — Ham and Swiss is a classic combination for a reason. The saltiness of the ham combines perfectly with the rich, nutty flavor of the Swiss cheese. But for those who think that the American commodity version of Swiss cheese lacks flavor, there are reasons for that. It is, after all, a mass-produced imitation of a deep tradition that continues to this day in the Alps.
Up and down the mountain they go
Just like the “snowbird” crowd of retirees and remote workers move to Florida in the winter and up north in the summer to enjoy comfortable temperatures year-round, transhumance reflects the age-old tradition of herders moving their livestock up to mountain pastures in the summer and down to valleys in the winter.
“Alpine-style cheeses, originating from the Swiss, French, and Italian Alps, embody a rich tradition known as Alpage or Transhumance,” said Alex Blair, Certified Cheese Professional at Whole Foods Market in Colorado Springs. “During the summer months, cheesemakers ascend to the lush mountain pastures to craft these distinctive cheeses.”
The vegetation that grows in the mountains is different than what grows in the valleys, giving livestock a smorgasbord of tasty herbs and flowers they would not have access to in one area. This not only makes for healthier cows and sheep, but also impacts the flavor of the cheese.
“The unique environmental conditions of the Alps, characterized by cool temperatures and low humidity, are ideal for aging these cheeses, which are known for their low moisture content and smooth, elastic texture,” said Blair. “This aging process, which is not feasible at lower, warmer elevations, where only fresh cheeses can be produced, results in a variety of flavors ranging from mild to robust, with notes that can be buttery, earthy, sweet, and savory.”
There are many types of Alpine-style cheeses, but they tend to share many characteristics in both form, flavor, and meltability.
“These cheeses are typically formed into large wheels, a practical choice for transportation,” said Blair. “Iconic examples include Emmental — often mistakenly referred to simply as ‘Swiss cheese’ due to its characteristic holes — Gruyère, and Raclette.”
Emmentaler – Swiss cheese that actually comes from Switzerland
Emmentaler is the most iconic of the Alpine cheeses, and is responsible for all of the artist doodles portraying cheese full of holes. First produced in Switzerland in the 13th century, the name comes from the Germanic name for the Emme Valley.
The distinctive holes, called “eyes,” are caused by the bacteria that gives the cheese flavor during the aging process. In a reaction that may be all too familiar to the lactose-intolerant, the bacteria “eats” the lactose in the milk and creates gas. The gas can’t escape the hardening dairy and causes cherry-sized pockets in the cheese.
American Swiss cheese is a milder mass-produced copy of Emmentaler. Swiss immigrants brought the recipe for Emmentaler to the U.S. in the 1800s, using milk available in their new home and changing the process to fit their new lifestyles. The difference in where and how the cows graze, as well as the mass production, tends to make for much less depth of flavor than the original, leading many to the opinion that it’s only good for sandwiches.
A good aged Emmentaler has slightly sweet and nutty notes that are delicious straight from the wheel, or when melted. “To fully appreciate the flavors of Alpine cheeses, they can be paired with white wine, a brown ale, caramelized onion jam, or crisp apples, enhancing their taste profile and offering a delightful gastronomic experience,” said Blair.
Melting superstars: Comté and Raclette
Many Alpine cheeses are great melters, but two, in particular, are perhaps known more for their melting properties — Comté, the traditional cheese used in French Onion Soup, and Raclette, a cheese that shares its name both with the grill used to melt it, and the dish it’s typically served in.
“The pH level of these cheeses contributes to their exceptional melting properties, making them perfect for culinary delights such as fondue or grilled cheese sandwiches,” said Blair.
Comté is made in France in the mountains bordering Switzerland. It has the nutty, rich flavors that are the hallmark of Alpine-style cheeses, but has a higher salt content than Emmentaler, bringing out more savory notes. Comté is closely related to Gruyère, both in flavor and in process, but Gruyère is made in Switzerland, not far from the French border.
Comté pairs well with many foods, making a great addition to a cheese board, but it really shines when melted, with its smooth texture and rich flavor. Melting Comté enhances its fruity notes, bringing apricots to mind, as well as highlighting its rich, garlicky notes. It’s no wonder that it’s the cheese of choice for many to give French Onion Soup a real depth of flavor.
“Raclette” can refer to either the cheese, the dish, or the grill used to prepare the dish. It is often featured at fondue restaurants, giving guests an interactive element to their meals with special trays used to melt the cheese under the grills.
Restaurants will often put half of an entire wheel under the heat and then scrape the melted goodness onto a plate to accompany potatoes or cured meats. Like other Alpine cheeses, Raclette has a buttery, nutty flavor when melted, creating the perfect gooey accompaniment to almost any meat or vegetable.
There are many different kinds of Alpine cheese, and, though similar, each brings something different to the table in terms of flavor, texture, and meltability. So it’s time to put away notions of Swiss cheese being bland and boring, and elevate your ham and Swiss game with an original that lives up to its region’s reputation for excellence.
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